Just uploaded three videos onto Youtube of the Nygsrt.
In part 11 of our SRT4 swap into a 1995 Neon we discussed ABS pump and mounting it into the Neon.
Here we have the SRT4 torque mount/Power steering bracket. Most Neon owners that do a SRT4 swap just use the 2.4 Stratus engine mount swap adapter and eliminate this bracket altogether. The problem with doing that, is that you cant use a upper torque mount to secure the engine in place, nor will you have power steering if you eliminate this bracket.
So, we have taken the nut that goes on the inside of the bracket, and we have measured and found that the point in which we could use our Neon passenger side mount and bolt along with this bracket.
The nut that our passenger side motor mount bolt will attach onto fits perfectly into the webbing on the backside of the SRT4 power steering/torque mount brace.
In part 10 we discussed electrical wiring of our SRT4 swapped 1995 Neon.
Next up is installing the ABS pump. The engine bay in the SRT4 had a lot of room, but because we have a LOT less room in the Neon we have to modify the bracket to be able to mount the ABS pump onto the frame. The rusty piece of steel welded onto the right side of the bracket is the piece we added on.
Here, we are cutting away a lot of the ABS pump mounting bracket because all we need are the two mounting points for the ABS pump.
This is what our custom bracket looks like after a lot of cutting, and welding.
Here we have the ABS pump with our special bracket mounted to the frame.
Here we have the ABS Pump mounted, and the SRT4 brake lines are attached to the ABS pump.
In our previous installment of our SRT4 swap series we showed you the differences between a lot of Neon and SRT4 components.
Now onto the fuel tank. I wanted to use the SRT4 fuel tank, SRT4 fuel pump, and SRT4 fuel lines. The tanks are very similar, except the angle of the fuel inlet, and the SRT4 straps tie down in a slightly different spot. Here we have the SRT4 fuel tank on top, and the Neon fuel tank on bottom.
Neon fuel tank on top, SRT4 fuel tank on bottom.
Because the SRT4 fuel tank is larger, the straps wouldnt tie down to the Neon.
So, we have taken some 1/4 inch steel plate, drilled it, and used these to extend out the mounting points for the fuel tank straps.
Heres the tank installed with the 1/4 inch plate along with a large spacer.
Now, the angle of the fuel filler necks are different between both cars so we eventually install a SRT4 fuel filler neck to use with the SRT4 fuel tank. This photo shows the Neon fuel filler neck and the SRT4 fuel tank. Notice the difference in angles on the inlet.
In part 7 of our SRT4 swap series we discussed clutch pedal modifications that had to be made to put SRT4 clutch pedal assemblies into a Neon.
Comparison of expansion valves. The SRT4 expansion valve is on top of the strut mount. They are identical except the electrical connection is on the top instead of on the bottom (Neon).
SRT4 AC lines and dryer is installed into the Neon, as you can see the angles of the AC lines are offset further away from the strut mount.
Neon AC lines and dryer.
Rear SRT4 hubs, rotors and calipers are swapped onto the rear.
Pedal assemblies are reinstalled.
Previously in our SRT4 swap series into a 1995 Neon we talked about steering column and clutch pedal placements.
Neon steering column mount on the left, SRT4 on the right.
Under the dash, some of the sheet metal needs to be cut for the pedal assemblies to fit.
In these photos you’ll see that we will be using the Neon upper mounting plate for the pedals, but we are using the SRT4 pedal assemblies. So, some work has to be done to cut, and modify the SRT4 pedal assembly and then weld the Neon upper mounting plate onto it.
Reinforcing the pedal assembly.
Heres the SRT4 pedal assembly with the Neon upper mounting plate welded onto it.
Brake booster is now attached in the engine bay and attached onto the brake pedal.
Mounting plate for the bobble strut is now cut off as we wont be needing it anymore.
Anytime you are installing a new component like a new larger turbo on your 03-05 Dodge SRT4, or a new header on your 95-05 Neon, you should consider installing ARP Exhaust studs.
Why ? Well, each time you remove and reinstall a screw into the head of your engine, you increase the chances of stripping out the threads, and furthermore the ARP studs are stronger! The ARP studs, because they are forged, can handle a lot more weight than your typical bolt!
The way these work, is you thread the studs into the head just like a normal exhaust bolt. You use a allen key to thread the stud into place as the stud has a allen key receptacle on the end of it. After tightening down the stud, you then put the new component onto the stud, and then torque down the nut onto the stud.
Heres a photo of a few of the ARP studs threaded into a head.
Previously in our SRT swap series we started showing you the difference in clutch pedals between SRT4 and Neon.
Here we have a steel backing plate that will help reinforce the firewall and give the master cylinder a nice flat area to mount onto.
SRT4 clutch master cylinder is now in place on the firewall.
Now the backing plate is installed inside the car.
Inside the engine bay, heres the backside of the clutch master cylinder.
The photo above is of a 2004 Dodge SRT4, and you may wonder why the engine is sitting at an angle.
The reason is, the customer that owns this car has a very modified engine, larger turbo, cams, and cam gears. Most owners of cars who install cam gears typically leave the cam gear covers off so that they can adjust the cam gears easily.
The problem with leaving the plastic cam gear covers off, is your timing belt and other timing accesories can be damaged. In this particular case, the customers power steering belt flew off, somehow got lodged into the timing belt assembly and destroyed the timing belt. Thankfully the 03-05 SRT4 is a non interference motor that in case the timing belt breaks the valves wont slam into the pistons, and this customer had no engine damage because of his timing belt failing.
The 2.0 Neon motor from 1995-2005 are all interference motors so if your timing belt fails, then the valves will crash into the pistons and cause catastrophic damage.
Previously in our SRT4 swap series we showed you the stock 1995 Neons 2.4 motor swap.
Teardown of the Neon dash.
Comparison of the clutch pedal assemblies. SRT4 on the left, Neon on the right. Because the SRT4 transmission is hydraulically operated, and not like the Neon transmission which is cable operated, the exact placement and location of the clutch pedal pivot is crucial. If the clutch pedal angle, or pivot point was off, it would affect the clutch engagement. So, the SRT4 factory clutch pedal assembly was used.
Here we are inside the Neon, looking at the large circular area that the brake booster attaches onto with four bolts. On the left you see a red circle that is the area we need to drill a hole for the clutch master cylinder.
Here is the NYG at the mechanics shop.
Photos of 2.4 engine, drivetrain in the 95 Neon before the swap.
Previously, in part 2 of the SRT4 complete swap series, we showed you photos of the donor SRT4 car.
Time to start stripping the donor car to make it easier to remove the wiring for the swap.
Previously, in part 1 we showed you photos of the 1995 Neon that we were doing the swap onto. Now, lets show you some photos of the donor SRT4 .
Here are photos of the donor car for the swap. This is a Salvage title 2004 Dodge SRT4 with 65,000 miles. It was involved in several accidents and has had some frame damage. Because it ran well, but had a beat up exterior it made for a perfect donor car for our swap. Although it looks good in these photos, theres LOTS of bondo, and nasty repair work hiding under the paint.
Heres the business end of the donor SRT4.
The roof had cracks from the huge amounts of bondo expanding and contracting under the paint.
Ok, for those of you who are familiar with my 1995 Dodge Neon Nitro Yellow Green ACR, you can skip ahead. For those of you who arent familiar with the history of this car, heres a primer for you.
I found this car in a junkyard way back in June of 2006. It was a shell of a car, with a busted up interior, no engine/transmission and it wasnt far away from being crushed. The shell was in great shape with no major damage though, and it was a GENUINE ACR Nitro Yellow Green Neon!
Heres pictures of how I found the shell in the junkyard.
(Past thread on www.neons.org with the full history on this car is here: [url]http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=259861[/url]
Now, after buying the shell, piecing together the interior, suspension, I built up a 2.0 Magnum High Compression Sohc motor to play around with. I was able to get 160 horsepower and about 138 lbs of torque at the wheels out of that motor. It ran fine, but I needed more power so eventually I put in a high compression 2.4 motor out of a Dodge Stratus. With tuning, I was able to get a peak of 190 hp and 170 lbs of torque at the wheels. It felt great, but eventually I needed more power.
Thats how I decided to do a complete SRT4 swap. I wanted to have a solid 250+ horsepower at the wheels with the next motor combination, and the SRT4 motor could easily produce 250-300 horsepower at the wheels. I wanted it to be extremely reliable, be able to pass emissions tests, and be incredibly solid.
Tomorrow – photos of the donor car and teardown..
Problem: For 03-05 SRT4’s, the hydraulic clutch master cylinder connects to the clutch pedal via whats called a Clutch Pivot. The master cylinder connects to the clutch pivot and has a plastic locking clip to hold it in place. Over time ,the plastic locking clip will break, and or wear away and cause inconsistent clutch engagement/disengagement.
So, we designed a piece that would replace the factory plastic clutch pivot piece altogether with an alumium body, bearing grade bronze bushing, grade 8 bolt and e-clip.
This gives you a MUCH more solid clutch feel, and will eliminate any clutch inconsistencies. Plus, its very simple to install, and only requires a socket set, and about 5 minutes to remove the factory piece and install the MPx clutch pivot arm!
More details here: