Progress! We recently bought Alex Lopez’s 1998 Neon with 2.4 Swap. It came with a built motor but no power steering and we wanted power steering. So, we gave it some thought and decided to go ahead and figure out a way to install the automatic belt tensioner system and second gen power steering pump and reservoir. We really like how the second gen power steering system has the reservoir built in, which allows for more room behind the motor, and no power steering lines running back and forth around the cam gears to the reservoir.
Our goal is to later offer the necessary brackets for you to be able to install the second gen pump and reservoir in your first gen.
So, here is our first startup video. You’ll hear a high pitch vacuum leak, this is from the throttle body, please disregard that noise and just check out the sweetness of the power steering on our high compression 2.4 swap.
Next up we are going to be putting in a lightweight and smaller battery to make room for the air intake system.
Its difficult to find good condition floor mats for 95-99 Neons in 2017.
Let alone, 1995-1996 Neon floor mats as they are more rare.
Anyways, Vince needed floor mats for his 95 Neon with light colored interior, and he found a set in Canada! So, shipping cost like twice what the floor mats cost, but he got a cherry set of floor mats for the 95!
Our employee Matt ordered some window moldings for his 1998 Dodge Neon and the moldings were transferred from the “Vintage Parts” division.
We think its pretty interesting that our 1995-1999 Dodge Neons are now considered “Vintage”. Should we start applying for ANTIQUE VEHICLE plates yet ? Hehehe. We got a laugh out of this and thought it would be cool to share with you guys.
In part 11 of our SRT4 swap into a 1995 Neon we discussed ABS pump and mounting it into the Neon.
Here we have the SRT4 torque mount/Power steering bracket. Most Neon owners that do a SRT4 swap just use the 2.4 Stratus engine mount swap adapter and eliminate this bracket altogether. The problem with doing that, is that you cant use a upper torque mount to secure the engine in place, nor will you have power steering if you eliminate this bracket.
So, we have taken the nut that goes on the inside of the bracket, and we have measured and found that the point in which we could use our Neon passenger side mount and bolt along with this bracket.
The nut that our passenger side motor mount bolt will attach onto fits perfectly into the webbing on the backside of the SRT4 power steering/torque mount brace.
In part 10 we discussed electrical wiring of our SRT4 swapped 1995 Neon.
Next up is installing the ABS pump. The engine bay in the SRT4 had a lot of room, but because we have a LOT less room in the Neon we have to modify the bracket to be able to mount the ABS pump onto the frame. The rusty piece of steel welded onto the right side of the bracket is the piece we added on.
Here, we are cutting away a lot of the ABS pump mounting bracket because all we need are the two mounting points for the ABS pump.
This is what our custom bracket looks like after a lot of cutting, and welding.
Here we have the ABS pump with our special bracket mounted to the frame.
Here we have the ABS Pump mounted, and the SRT4 brake lines are attached to the ABS pump.
In our previous installment of our SRT4 swap series we showed you the differences between a lot of Neon and SRT4 components.
Now onto the fuel tank. I wanted to use the SRT4 fuel tank, SRT4 fuel pump, and SRT4 fuel lines. The tanks are very similar, except the angle of the fuel inlet, and the SRT4 straps tie down in a slightly different spot. Here we have the SRT4 fuel tank on top, and the Neon fuel tank on bottom.
Neon fuel tank on top, SRT4 fuel tank on bottom.
Because the SRT4 fuel tank is larger, the straps wouldnt tie down to the Neon.
So, we have taken some 1/4 inch steel plate, drilled it, and used these to extend out the mounting points for the fuel tank straps.
Heres the tank installed with the 1/4 inch plate along with a large spacer.
Now, the angle of the fuel filler necks are different between both cars so we eventually install a SRT4 fuel filler neck to use with the SRT4 fuel tank. This photo shows the Neon fuel filler neck and the SRT4 fuel tank. Notice the difference in angles on the inlet.
Today I did something that very few 1995-1999 Dodge Neon owners have ever done. I took a Diablosport Predator, connected it to my OBD2 port on my 1995 Neon and flashed a new performance program to the pcm within 3 minutes.
Now, before all of you 1995-1999 Neon owners call us and ask where you can buy this item, realize that this car is a full SRT4 swap car, and it has a SRT4 pcm, wiring harness, and obd2 port on a car that typically came with obd1 and could not be flashed.
Here are some pictures of the flashing process.
Went from 13-14 psi to 15-16 psi of boost
Boost builds up MUCH faster now
Went from 10.5:1 air fuel ratio in 4th gear to 12.0:1 air fuel ratio in 4th gear. (Car was reprogrammed to run leaner for more power with predator flash!)
Further benefit of the Predator flasher:
Can adjust idle
Can adjust when fans turn on and off
Can adjust timing
Can adjust fuel
Can adjust boost
Can adjust TONS more parameters. Its absolutely amazing.
More details here:
Previously in our SRT4 swap series into a 1995 Neon we talked about steering column and clutch pedal placements.
Neon steering column mount on the left, SRT4 on the right.
Under the dash, some of the sheet metal needs to be cut for the pedal assemblies to fit.
In these photos you’ll see that we will be using the Neon upper mounting plate for the pedals, but we are using the SRT4 pedal assemblies. So, some work has to be done to cut, and modify the SRT4 pedal assembly and then weld the Neon upper mounting plate onto it.
Reinforcing the pedal assembly.
Heres the SRT4 pedal assembly with the Neon upper mounting plate welded onto it.
Brake booster is now attached in the engine bay and attached onto the brake pedal.
Mounting plate for the bobble strut is now cut off as we wont be needing it anymore.
Anytime you are installing a new component like a new larger turbo on your 03-05 Dodge SRT4, or a new header on your 95-05 Neon, you should consider installing ARP Exhaust studs.
Why ? Well, each time you remove and reinstall a screw into the head of your engine, you increase the chances of stripping out the threads, and furthermore the ARP studs are stronger! The ARP studs, because they are forged, can handle a lot more weight than your typical bolt!
The way these work, is you thread the studs into the head just like a normal exhaust bolt. You use a allen key to thread the stud into place as the stud has a allen key receptacle on the end of it. After tightening down the stud, you then put the new component onto the stud, and then torque down the nut onto the stud.
Heres a photo of a few of the ARP studs threaded into a head.