(Posting this because we get asked all of the time about Caliber SRT4 drive by wire systems and its limitations)
The Caliber SRT4 is a drive by wire car.
So, in order to maximize traction since the Caliber doesn’t have an LSD is to moderate the throttle body.
So, sometimes, when the pcm sees wheel spin, it will back the throttle off even if you have 100% throttle to maximize traction.
The pcm can also close the throttle to try and regulate boost levels even when it doesn’t see wheel spin.
So what does this mean?
It means, you can install a boost controller on your Caliber SRT4, run 19 psi (over the stock 12-14 psi) and you could run slower than a stock Caliber SRT4.
Why you ask!? Its because the pcm will close the throttle to try and regulate the boost.
You could have as little as 30-40% throttle opening even though you have your foot completely to the floor.
So, the best thing to do, is to try and find a pcm flash of some sort to improve the boost level threshold. Then, don’t adjust the boost level more than 1-2 psi higher than what you normally have to keep the pcm happy.
The other alternative is to get an AEM FIC that tricks the pcm into thinking it has less boost, and then using the FIC to dump more fuel to correct the lean condition. That involves hacking up the factory engine harness, tuning, and installing larger injectors, which is more of an operation than most people want to do. So, its best to stick to bolt on mods, which is still enough to get you over 300 wheel hp.